Zucco in Meanwood: what to order and when to go

Zucco is an Italian family restaurant at 603 Meanwood Road, Meanwood, on the corner of Monk Bridge Road. It describes itself as a specialist in Italian sharing plates, and it has been doing it long enough to be counted among Meanwood's longest-standing independents.

A bit of history

Zucco opened in May 2013, started by Rosario Leggiero, who had worked with restaurateur Russell Norman. Hardens says he opened it with his chef brother Michael and that Rosario had worked at Polpo in London. Confidentials noted the look owes a lot to Polpo, and Hardens describes it as a direct descendant of Salvo's in Headingley.

The Yorkshire Post says Meanwood was an unfashionable suburb, overshadowed by Chapel Allerton and Headingley, when it opened. In 2021, a week after reopening from Covid restrictions, a car crashed through the front window. Nobody was hurt, but the restaurant shut for five months, and an online campaign raised more than £11,000 to pay staff. It came back, and the Yorkshire Post still calls it one of the best restaurants in Leeds.

In February 2024 the Observer's Jay Rayner reviewed it and called it a “note-perfect Italian”. Hardens lists that review at five stars.

What to order

The food leans towards southern Italy and good ingredients. The menu changes with the season, and fresh seafood depends on what they can get, so treat the list below as “when on”.

• White risotto with braised ox cheek. Rayner called it “quite simply perfect”.
• The ragù pasta. The Yorkshire Post headline quotes a diner calling it the best ragù they have ever had.
• Arancini and fritto misto. Both were part of Rayner's lunch.
• Others seen on menus: chargrilled octopus with saffron potatoes, pork belly stuffed with apricots, fried courgette and mint, tagliatelle al burro, king scallops and pizzette.
• To finish: affogato, sgroppino or lemon and polenta cake, when available.

Hardens reports plenty of vegetarian dishes, and a reviewer on Restaurant Guru says gluten-free needs are well looked after, with suitable dishes marked on the menu. Check with staff for your own requirements.

On quantity: Confidentials once ordered ten dishes for two and the waitress talked them down. Two to three plates each is a sensible guide.

Prices

No current per-dish prices turned up, but the guides agree on the total. Hardens puts the average at £46 a head for three courses, half a bottle of wine, coffee, cover and service. SquareMeal gives £30 to £49, and Restaurant Guru reviewers report £30 to £40. Budget roughly £30 to £45 a head.

When to go

It is a small space with every nook used, and it fills up: the Yorkshire Post mentions a full house on a Friday night, and one reviewer found it too noisy at a busy time. If you want it calmer, the weekday lunch slot or a Sunday are the likeliest bets, though that is a guess rather than a promise.

Listings give these hours, though they vary a little between sites, so check before you set off:

• Monday: closed
• Tuesday to Thursday: 12pm to 2pm, 5.30pm to 9.30pm
• Friday: 12pm to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10.30pm
• Saturday: 12pm to 3pm, 5pm to 10.30pm
• Sunday: 12pm to 8.30pm

To book, SquareMeal says to call 0113 224 9679. Phone ahead for booking and card policy rather than relying on a listing.

For after: Terminus Tap Room

Terminus Tap Room & Bottle Shop, 8a Stonegate Road, Meanwood, is the taproom of Meanwood Brewery, run by brothers Baz and Graeme Phillips. It sits up a private road with a decked beer garden and three rooms. Visit Leeds lists 18 draught lines and over 120 craft beers in the fridges. It is listed as dog and child friendly. Opening times differ between listings, so check them first.

If you would rather not move far, The Meanwood Tavern at 607 Meanwood Road is next door to Zucco, from the Whitelock's and Turk's Head team, with an Art Deco look and a good beer range.

More on the restaurant's own description is at zucco.co.uk, and Hardens has the price and rating detail.